SOUNDPROOFING RELATED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS trolley with www written acrosswads of moneynoise meterpile of books and brochuresworkman with tool belt and tools




Below are extracts from email enquiries to us along with answers so an answer to your question may well be within these.  These will be added to on a regular basis.

QUESTION:  I will soon be converting a two storey dwelling into ground and first floor flats. I have looked at your solution for sound treatment to the first floor timber joist and timber floorboards and require the following advice.

If I use the 2mm soundproof mat laid over the timber floor which has the board joints filled with your fireproof sealant, then lay the quietfloor plus panels on top, do I need to glue these to the soundproof mat ?What perimeter trims should I use for the increased floor depth of 15 + 2mm. I will be fitting carpet gripper to these.I have approx 45m2 to cover. Is there a discount to your price list for this quantity. 

ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  If you are converting an existing floor into a separating floor for flats it will have to comply with Part E of the Building Regulations for noise control and a test will have to be conducted to prove compliance.  In order for the floor to be brought up to the required standard, the ceiling below will have to be upgraded as well as an infill between the joists and the fitting of a floating floor. The ceiling will have to be upgraded by decoupling and adding mass as described on our web site which can be viewed via the following link  100mm of AMW100 acoustic mineral wool should be installed as a loose fit between the joists and a floating floor using our R10 system fitted as also described on our web site via the next link   Current prices are also on our web site but if you get back to me with the total area of floors you need to upgrade, I will be pleased to give you our best price to supply and deliver your requirements. You may also have to upgrade separating walls and if this is the case we can help with that too.  Just give us the details. 

QUESTION:  We manufacture ticket printers for the rail industry and the metal housing requires a sound deadening lining. I believe your Monolayer Sound Barrier Mat (2mm thick) would be ideal. Can you supply pre-cut and pressure sensitive adhesive backed in custom sizes (approx 280mm x 155mm)? 

ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  We already have a 2mm self-adhesive vibration damping sheet available from stock which is our Dedsheet and more information on this can be viewed on our web site via the following link  As you can see from the information, the size of this product is 980 x 600mm and can easily be cut to size with a sharp Stanley type knife.  If you prefer bespoke sizes to be supplied, please give me the quantities required along with the frequency of call-off and I will be pleased to get back to you with our best price to supply and deliver along with the cost of preparing the required cutting tool. 

QUESTION:  I'm looking at using the soundblocker membrane in our bedroom. My builder is asking if putting nails through it to attach plasterboard will reduce its effectiveness? 

ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  SoundBlocker membrane is a high density, solid sound barrier mat designed to be sandwiched between layers of high density plasterboard to decouple the mass making the structure acoustically more efficient.  It will not affect the performance of nails or screws penetrate it which is essential when fixing the palsterboard.  For even better results, the new ceiling should be decoupled from the underside of the joists either with our 14mm Resilient Bars or the 45mm GenieClip system.  More information on these can be viewed on our web site via the following links  Current prices are also on our web site. 

QUESTION:  So if the membrane has plasterboard to it will it work just as well? I basically live in a lower ground flat with not much space to play with to soundproof the bedroom.  Do you think that this is the best option? The membrane plus soundproof plasterboard? ANSWER:  You can glue the membrane to another sheet of 15mm acoustic plasterboard and screw it up to the original ceiling.   However, for a much better result and if the original ceiling is just plasterboard, remove the plasterboard and screw across the joists our 15mm deep Resilient Bars.    Then screw to the bars one layer of 15mm Acoustic Plasterboard followed by another sheet of Acoustic Plasterboard with the membrane attached.  Taking care not to shortcut through the bars into the supporting joists. Total thickness of this system is 46mm from the underside of the joists. If the existing ceiling is lather and plaster do not remove it but simply screw up another sheet of 15mm APB with membrane attached. Total added thickness being 16mm.  

QUESTION:  We are renovating an old building that is very close to a busy road. We used cellotex insulation and sound absorbent plaster boards but the noise is still too much. There is a small smack between us and the road which is elevated and in direct line of our bedroom.  There is only an old cast iron railing between the road and the property at the moment and we are investigating what we can put there to reduce the noise by either deflecting it or absorbing it. We have thought of either a brick wall with insulation in the cavity or sound panels or even gabions. Do you have any recommendations or products that might help? ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry but unfortunately, Celotex is not sound absorbing which could be a reason why you are still not getting the results you hoped for. If you are prepared to erect a screen between the road and you then a 9 inch solid masonry wall will work best and as high as possible. 

QUESTION:  I am interested in soundproofing my ceiling and I would like to ask you a few questions before purchasing the materials. We are suffering from a problem of noise from our upstairs neighbours. Impact noise is the most audible – especially footsteps (heavy barefoot) and moving furniture and sometimes loud music (especially bass) – and occasionally we can hear voices.We want to try out the soundproofing in the middle room first (our study/spare bedroom) and depending how effective it is, we’d consider doing the rest of the flat.  The neighbour’s flat has the same lay out, but they have demolished the wall that separates the living room/kitchen (left hand room) from the middle room and I wondered whether this fact might have an impact on any noise reduction in the room.  We can also hear the music in the bedroom (on the right of the plan)The block of flats was built in 1930s and has a wooden beam structure. It was totally renovated about 3yrs ago but there is probably still no insulation between the floors. The neighbours don’t have carpet or a floating floor and we are not on good enough terms to ask them to consider either of these options, therefore, we are going down the soundproofing route.

Given the situation, I have a few questions. Firstly, we have looked into Genie Clips and they seem the best way forward. How many genie clips and how many Hat furring channels for 16m2 (3.5m X 4.5m) / 175 sq.ft. (11.5ft X 14.75ft)

Secondly, which option would be more effective for our noise issues? Is a mute barrier between dry walls better than green glue? We’ve heard that green glue is better for impact noise, but would like an expert’s opinionFinally, what overall effect can we expect? Will there be a noticeable reduction in the sound, especially the impact noise, which is causing the most hassle? Which noises are likely to be reduced (and by how much) and so how audible would heavy barefoot footsteps and music bass still be?

ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry and I think it will be worth your while reading our article on soundproofing a ceiling because it will answer many of your questions.  The article can be accessed on our web site via the following link  Your reference to the use of the GenieClip system of decoupling ceilings is good and the GenieClip system is far better than normal Resilient Bars that are often installed incorrectly.  It is impossible to install the GenieClip system incorrectly. From the measurements you have given, I estimate you will require the following if you opt for using GenieClips but the quantities will be dependent on the number of joists and their spacings. 108 No. GeniClips   26 No. Top Hat Channels   20 No. AMW100 100mm Acoustic Mineral Wool for between the joists or 6 or 7 Rolls of SoundBlocker Quilt In addition you will require two thicknesses of 15mm high density Acoustic Plasterboard and if the square area exceeds 15 sq mtrs and less than 30 sq mtrs you will require two rolls of our SoudBlocker membrane that should be sandwiched between the layers of plasterboard and our Sta-Stuk adhesive for fixing it. You will also require self-drilling screws and Acoustic Sealant for the edges of the plasterboard where it meets the walls. All lighting should be surface mounted with holes for wiring sealed.  Do not fit inset ceiling lights. 

QUESTION:  Can you advise on best way to reduce/stop noise from below my bedroom? I live in upstairs council flat. Neighbour being loud at daft o clock below.. cleaning up, banging etc. I have concrete/asphalt floor, typical of old council flats. Im aware of flanking issues also, from my landing etc. 

ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry and I think everything you need to know is contained in our article on soundproofing floors which you can access on our web site via the following link  

QUESTION:  Hi.  Well it's a council flat, so thinking 1960's? I am concerned with flanking certainly too. As long as I can get bedroom a safe haven i will be happy. But noise will come from landing also i woild imagine? not sure if the problem is classed as impact or airborne, as problem tenant is below my flat (2 flats, ground and first floor) 

ANSWER:  Usually concrete floors give a good level of soundproofing unless they are beam and block so it is likely your noise problem is due to flanking noise through the external cavities in the structural walls.  Internal walls of that age were more normally plastered single skin Breeze blocks and these are not for blocking sound.  The way to check this is to stand in the middle of the room when you are aware of the noise you are hearing then walk slowly towards any of the cavity walls.   If the noise appears to get louder the closer you are to a wall it is most likely due to flanking noise through those walls.  With regard to separating walls from corridors and landings, the only solution if it is not coming through any doors is to upgrade the soundproofing of that wall at the same time as any other walls that may be the source of flanking noise. The best solution we can offer for this is to install our 50mm thick Thin Wall Soundproofing System which you can view on our web site via the following link  If on the other hand you feel the noise is coming through the floor the best solution you can consider is either our Floating Floor System along with QuietFloor Gold Carpet System replacement acoustic underlay for carpets or just the QuietFloor on its own but of course, the results will not be as good.  More info on these two systems can be viewed via the next two links  

QUESTION:  Hi, thanks for information. I'm sure noise will be flanking from walls, but I can't afford to do all this you mention. Would laying sbm5 on just the floor be of no use then? Would I be wasting my time and money?  

ANSWER:  If you are sure flanking noise is an issue then spending money to upgrade the floor will not be worthwhile.  Much as I would like to be able to sell you soundproofing of a floor I would also want you to appreciate the results but in your case, I believe there will be no reduction in the level of noise you are hearing unless you can establish if the floor is beam and block.  If it is beam and block it may be worth adding three layers of SBM5 to the floor which will add 15kg per sq mtr of mass and extra mass is the best defence against noise.  

QUESTION:  We are on the ground floor flat and the flat above has a vinyl sheet directly on the floor boards in their kitchen. We impact noise is quite intrusive and we are looking for a good solution to reduce this.    We would like to not be too intrusive and hopefully just treat the areas where they walk. At first I thought of just adding an underlay underneath a new vinyl sheet, but this might not be effective.  Could you please suggest a solution? ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  I take it your neigbours above are agreeable to having insulation installed to reduce the sound of impact noise from footfalls being heard from below.  That being the case I suggest that our 5mm Linoroll resilient insulation is fixed directly to the floor's surface with our 6mm MDF tongue and groove flooring glued on top.  The vinyl can then be reinstalled as normal on top of the MDF.  That should do it.  More info on both of these products can be viewed on our web site via the following links  Current prices are also on the web site. 

QUESTION:  I am acting as a project manager to convert empty space in the middle of High Wycombe (part of the ex Woolworths store) into a 4,000 person nightclub, and I attach some details. Essentially the space is a shell at present with a car park on top, and we are the early stages of the project and looking at compliance with building regulations.  However, as the noise levels will be quite high I also need to ensure we keep the sound ‘inside’ the building, and am seeking some advice on how to achieve this, in conjunction with the require to thermally insulate the structure. Essentially the roof, approx 3,000 sq m, and the walls need to be both sound and thermally insulates to meet the impending 2013 regulations. I do not have a definite db level although I would expect around 105 db with a heavy base and this needs to be contained.  Is this something which you can/are interested in assisting with, particularly as you are local to me. 

ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry and the best way to soundproof the proposed nightclub is to use the "room within a room" method incorporating an inner skin of high density 9 inch blocks and mineral wool within the cavity.  The cavity can be as deep as necessary to achieve the required thermal insulation rating.  In addition, a concrete screeded "floating floor" of at least 65mm thickness should be incorporated after the walls have been constructed and this will help contain low frequency noise. Access doors should be a double or triple door entry system using high density doors fitted with acoustic seals and windows, if they are to be fitted, should be triple glazed using different thicknesses of glass one of which should be laminated.  The glazing should be fitted with unequal spacings between the panes.  Heavy shutters with seals can also be fitted on the inside that can be closed over the windows if and when necessary. A Gyproc type MF ceiling should be fitted with 100mm of AMW type acoustic mineral wool within the cavity and two thicknesses of 15mm high density acoustic plasterboard fitted to the underside of the frame.  Inset ceiling lights or any type of other hole cut through the ceiling should be avoided. Once the soundproofed rooms have been constructed, sound absorption will also have to be considered and the best place to install this would normally be the ceiling.


Obviously, thought will have to be given to ventilation that will not allow noise to escape and I hope the above gives you an idea of what is required.

QUESTION:  As discussed we wish to insulate the floors of a property from both airborne and impact sound.
All the floors of the property are of a timber construction of oak beams and joists with 9" and 12" oak boards on top. Currently no lath and plaster exists to having been removed some years ago.
We need a solution where we can still retail the oak boards and the beams and joists but have significantly reduced the noise transfer.
Please see attached a two drawings showing a typical floor construction.


ANSWER:  Further to our conversation this afternoon concerning the upgrading of an existing timber joisted floor supported by beams I am able to confirm my suggestions discussed as follows.


1.  Install lathe and plaster ceiling after fixing either 2mm SBM5 or 1mm SoundBlocker Membrane to the underside of the joists.

2.  Infill between the joists as a loose fit 100mm of AMW100 acoustic mineral wool

3.  Screw to the top of the joists 18mm QuietBoard t&g high density acoustic floorboards

4.  Overlay 18mm QuietBoard with 2mm of SBM5 soundproofing mat

5.  Overlay SBM5 with 10mm of R10 resilient insulation

6.  Install minimum 12nn ply on top of R10 with 5mm expansion gap

7.  Screw down original flooring onto ply ensuring screws do not penetrate the R10 beneath.

8.  Seal expansion gaps with Acoustic Sealant

9.  Fit skirting boards with 1mm gap between bottom of skirting and floor surface.


There is not a thinner way this can be done if you want to retain the original floorboards as the walking surface and achieve a good degree of airborne and impact sound insulation.  But if this is too thick, the 18mm QuietBoard can be replaced with 12mm ply and the 10mm R10 with 8mm G8 and the 2mm SBM5 can be ommitted saving 10mm.  But this will also severely reduce the efficiency of the soundproofing.


More information on all of these products including technical data can be viewed on the commercial side of our web site.


QUESTION:  Years of problems with a neighbouring property and multiple tenants didn't prepare us for someone with a very powerful set of speakers and a love of very loud music day and night (not continuous - not often anyway) but unpredictable.


It's an old (late 19th century) terrace so there are lots of voids and old chimneys (one still open in terms of vents) but vibration transfer seems to be a major issue. I've tried an acoustic and thermal layer of wallpaper (from Go Wallpaper) It helped, but not with these madmen. What could you suggest?


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  Basically the thicker the soundproofing system is that is applied to the wall the more efficient it will be.  To  view the options we offer go to our web page via the following link

It will also be beneficial for you to read our article on soundproofing walls before  spending any money and you can go to that via this link


Current prices for our products can be found on the prices page of the same web site.


QUESTION:  I am trying to improve the soundproofing in a cabin I own at the bottom of our garden (approx. 80ft for the house). This is because I play guitar and want some where I can go without annoying the neighbours.


The cabin is approx. 5.2mx3m (16.09m2) and sits on an 8inch base of concrete. The walls are 44mm thick with an additional 25mm air gap and two layers of 12.5mm sound bloc plasterboard. The ceiling is 44mm thick with 50mm celotex insulation plus 25mm air gap and two layers of 12.5mm sound block plasterboard.


I would like some advice on how to proceed with the floor. Above the 8inch concrete base is 50mm celotex insulation and 18mm marine ply. I am looking to have carpet in the room and was considering the following option:


One layer of of Tecsound 50 + acoustic underlay. Would this do a good job?


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  The Tecsound T50 plus acoustic underlay such as our 10mm A10 will be OK with carpet on top but for better results, I would put T50 above and beneath the A10 sandwiching the A10.


QUESTIONWe have an integral garage which houses our son's drum kit.  There is a ply veneer door that leads directly into the house from the garage.


In order to try and reduce the noise whilst he's playing away, thinking of replacing existing ply veneer door  with a soundproof one but this should also be fireproof. The former is more important.


Yours suggestions would be welcome.


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  Our Acoustic Doorsets come complete with frame and hinges and are also 30 minute fire resistant.  There is a choice of 35dB or 44dB doors which are produced to fit the opening in which your existing frame is fitted.  More information on these can be viewed on our web site via the following link


Prices for a standard sized doorset is also on the web site and delivery would be £150 plus VAT.  If your existing doorframe is outside of the standard size please get back to us with the dimensions and we will be pleased to give you our best price to supply and deliver your requirements.


Because these doors are made to order, please allow about 5 weeks for delivery from receipt of order and payment.


QUESTIONYears of problems with a neighbouring property and multiple tenants didn't prepare us for someone with a very powerful set of speakers and a love of very loud music day and night (not continuous - not often anyway) but unpredictable.


It's an old (late 19th century) terrace so there are lots of voids and old chimneys (one still open in terms of vents) but vibration transfer seems to be a major issue. I've tried an acoustic and thermal layer of wallpaper (from Go Wallpaper) It helped, but not with these madmen. What could you suggest?


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  Basically the thicker the soundproofing system is that is applied to the wall the more efficient it will be.  To  view the options we offer go to our web page via the following link


It will also be beneficial for you to read our article on soundproofing walls before  spending any money and you can go to that via this link


QUESTIONHi, will the STA-STUK adhesive be strong enough to hold 50mm high density acoustic mineral wool in place on my ceiling? 


I'll be retaining my existing ceiling and using genie clips to create 50mm space to fill with mineral wool and will then add a couple of layers of acoustic plasterboard with your soundblocker membrane sandwiched in-between for the new ceiling underneath.


I'm looking at installing dense fibre matting with a higher density of 100kg per metre cubed to tackle bass noise from the flat above me and need something to hold it in place before installing acoustic plasterboard for the new ceiling. At 100kg it's therefore about twice as heavy as 'normal' acoustic mineral wool so wanted to check the adhesive will be up to the job.


ANSWER:  Our Sta-Stuk will be suitable but if you are using mineral wool of the density you mention, it is most important the slabs are fitted loosely between the battens and not jammed in.


QUESTION:  Thanks for the quick reply. Would you mind explaining quickly why they need to be fitted loosely? 


ANSWER:  The higher the density the more stiff the wool becomes.  If the panels are jammed between the battens it will stiffen up the resiliently sprung ceiling making it easier for sound to penetrate and can in fact, make a noise problem worse.  High density wool is not necessary and you would be better off using the normal 45kg stuff but again, should always be loosely fitted.  Acoustic Mineral Wool is not a sound barrier but a sound absorber designed to absorb reverberant noise within cavities so gaps between the wool do not matter.


QUESTIONOK, so basically by stuffing the gap with very dense wool it could basically just transfer the vibrations through it onto the new ceiling below rendering the whole thing useless.


What about the SoundBlocker quilt that you also sell? Would this be any better at reducing low frequency noise than standard 45kg mineral wool? 


The main issue I have is hifi noise and I can also hear impact noise from them walking around upstairs, if that helps.


ANSWER:  The impact noise will be reduced if you use the GenieClip system you mentioned earlier and our SoundBlocker Quilt is acoustically more efficient than the usual mineral wool.  This is because it has a soundproofing mat sandwiched in the middle of the product so this product does have to be sealed in around all of the sides and best secured with staples.  But there is a significant price difference.


QUESTIONI've just measured and there's definitely enough space to do this. The room height is 270cm and the top of the window frame is at 250cm, so I would have 20cm to play with -  enough room to do this plus perhaps also adding some shallow coving.


Do you sell all of these materials? Also, would you mind just explaining to me in more detail what the below means:


2.  Screw up 50mm stud at 450mm centres


I only have average DIY skills/knowledge so I'm guessing 50mm stud is basically this? And would they be fitted in the same direction as the joists? And what do you mean by 450mm centres?


ANSWER:  50mm studs are 50mm x 50mm timber battens and can be screwed to the ceiling in either direction but to obtain the 450mm centres which means fitting them with 450mm between the centres of each batten, it would be better to screw them to the ceiling across the existing joists.  Before doing this, it is important to locate the exact position of each joist by tapping then push a bradawl or thin screwdriver through the ceiling to establish the joists are where you think they are. Then mark the positions on the walls.  If you make any holes where joists are not present then seal them up with our Acoustic Sealant.


QUESTION:  I was looking for advice ,I live in an upper 4 in a block.The people down stairs from me have people in all the time and children. they have wooden floors through out their house.The noise during the day is ok but when my kids go to bed at night they cant sleep because of the noise mainly drunk people talking laughing running about kids screaming to all hours.what I am looking for is to try and stop the noise a bit starting with the living room.Im a single parent and both houses are council houses .So I need to keep my costs dwn I don't have a lot to spend so could someone give me some advice and prices please.


ANSWER:  Have you mentioned the noise problem to the council because it is in their powers to do something.  Otherwise, the only solution worth considering that will give you a reduction in noise nuisance from below is to install our QuietFloor Plus acoustic underlay for carpets.  The following link will take you to more information on the product.


QUESTION:  I am currently looking to build a 'drum riser' for an electronic drum kit, as I live in a block of flats - this would be to reduce noise to neighbours as much as possible!


I found your website, with lots of products that would prove useful in creating this item, but I wanted to check if you were aware of what types of products would be best suited? I was imagining some sort of rubber/foam/similar base, with a thick sheet of MDF (perhaps 18mm) sitting on top of this as a solid platform.


After looking at your products, I was considering the "Sound Absorbing Acoustic Foam" but this looks like it would give way if weight were applied to it. I also considered layering the "Acousticel R10" but wasn't sure if this would be sturdy enough. "Quietfloor Plus" may also be a possibility, but again, looks like it may not be stable enough for my purposes.


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry and our QuietFloor Plus is the product usually used for your requirements to reduce the sound of pedal noise.  As you rightly say, thick MDF or t&g 18mm chipboard with carpet should be placed on top of the insulation.


QUESTION:  How much would it cost to soundproof 1-4 walls all of similar size (8' x 12')  I have noisey neighbours who shout and swear alot during day and during the night so I need it totally soundproofing so I cannot hear them (is this possible)? 

Its driving me mad! 


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry but regret to say that total soundproofing is unlikely to be possible and particularly at night.  For the best soundproofing the party wall should not have a chimney breast and you would have to lose just under 6 inches of space and that would be our Studio Wall System with an independent stud wall.  The following link will take you to more information


There are thinner systems as you can see from the page but of course, a thinner system will not perform as well.


Before considering adding sound insulation noise can also flank around party walls and the severity of this will depend on the age of the building.  Post war properties tend to perform worse than pre-war properties.  It would be beneficial for you to read our article on soundproofing walls before spending any money and suggest you go to an article I have written on our web site via this next link


Once you have read the article and decided on how much space you can lose away from the walls in question, please get back to me then I will be pleased to give you more advice and costings.  Prices for all of our products can also be found on the prices page of our web site.


QUESTION:  We have purchased and installed your quiet floor plus.  Can you advise if carpet tiles can be used over this product


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry but it is not advised that carpet tiles are installed directly on top of any resilient acoustic underlay such as our QuietFloor Plus.  Carpet off a roll is what the product is designed for but if carpet tiles are required, a tongue and grooved board should be fitted on top of the underlay first.  We are almost about to launch a new 6mm thick tongue and grooved MDF board that would be suitable for this purpose and hopefully, will be available in the next few weeks.  They will be supplied in panels 1200 x 600mm at the price of £13.75/panel including VAT.

QUESTION:  Further to my conversation earlier today with a very helpful chap regarding the acoustic insulation to a ceiling / 1st floor at a pub with guest bedrooms above, I have placed an order for the acoustic hoods to cap over the emergency light fittings which we hope will reduce the current problem


I was also advised that it may be possible to further improve the sound-proofing by replacing the underlay below the carpets with your Quietfloor Plus and Soundbarrier Mat. I have spoken to the interior designer who specified the carpet and can confirm the following products were used;


3mm carpet

6mm Egalsoft underlay

5mm Rubbertech Cork


These were fitted onto 9mm ply in the bedrooms and 4 or 6mm ply in the Landings, that had been laid by the Contractor.


The underlay and the cork have following 'db' ratings:




Acoustics – Measurement of

sound insulationin buildings

and of building elements ΔLw    -27 dB


Rubbertech Cork


5mm – 21 – 23 db


I would be very grateful if you would let me know whether the proposal would improve upon the existing values and if so by how much so we can consider this as an option


I would be grateful for your response as soon as possible as we have a 4 day shut-down early in March when the works could be undertaken


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry and from the information you gave I can confirm that the underlay system already fitted on the floor above you is only tested for impact noise reduction.  It will have little or no effect at reducing airborne noise as you have probably realised.  If the 15mm QuietFloor acoustic underlay option I mentioned last week is used instead, it will normally give an airborne insulation improvement of at least 5dB and if used with an additional layer of 2mm SBM5 soundproofing mat a better improvement can be gained.  I can confidently say that there is nothing else available on the market that is as acoustically efficient as the QuietFloor system we offer.


QUESTION:  Thank you for this it is very helpful, presumably the Quietfloor  and SBM5 would replace rather than be used as well as the existing materials? I only ask because of concerns regarding additional thickness


If we decide to go down this route we could also take the chipboard flooring up and fill the void with sound deadening quilt (at the moment there is 50mm Rockwool acoustic slab), is there a big advantage in filling the void or does it work better to have an air gap?


ANSWER:  The QuietFloor system would replace any underlays that are already there.  No additional underlay is required.


You can add another 50mm of AMW50 acoustic mineral wool to what is already between the joists but any more would be a waste of money because no increase in performance would be achieved.  100mm is the maximum thickness that would give the best results but only when used along with upgrading the floor above and/or the ceiling beneath.


QUESTION:  I live on the middle floor of a block of 1960s flat. The floors are concrete. I can hear almost word to word conversations coming up from the flat below, as well as music. I'd like to reduce this airbourne noise but I don't completely understand what decibel level this noise is and what product to use. The floor to height is small.
Please can you give good recommendations on how to investigate where the noise is coming up and then the best product to use? At this stage I'm reluctant to buy a product online without some advice and recommendation on what the results will actually be.  Impactalay Plus was recommended to me but looking at your website you recommend that this product is not good at airbourne noise in concrete structures?


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  Concrete floors in a 1960's constructed building were usually quite dense and therefore blocked airborne noise quite efficiently and adding sound insulation to the floor will rarely make a difference.  What is usually the issue with your age property is that noise is flanking up the structural walls and through the cavity therein.  The way to check this is to stand in the middle of the room when you are aware of noise from below then walk towards each wall in turn.  It is most likely you will notice the noise getting louder as you approach outside walls.  If this is the case then those are the walls that would benefit from the addition of sound insulation such as our 27.5mm thick QuietPanel or 50mm M20AD system.  More information on these can be viewed on our web site via the following links


QuietPanel    -


M20AD          -


Current prices are also on the web site.


When conducting the test, do not put your ear to any walls because this will give you innaccurate information.  Simply standing near to the wall is all that is required. 


QUESTION:  I am doing a flat conversion and I need some underlay for the first floor. The floor is timber. I'd like to use the r10. can the carpet grippers be installed onto the r10 and the normal carpet placed on top?


i.e. can the r10 act as normal underlay?  Can it be placed on stairs too?


ANSWER:  If you are undergoing a change of use converting a building into flats, you have to comply with Part E of the Building Regulations for noise control through separating floors.  Our web page on R10 briefly describes the work that has to done to reach compliance and the floor has to be tested after completion to prove compliance before Building Control will sign it off.  You can go to our R10 web page via the following link and there is a further link on the right hand side of the product page to Installation and I recommend you also read through that so you have a full understanding of what is required.


QUESTION:  I’m planning on making a window plug for soundproofing and was wondering whether it would be better to purchase SA25FF(SA) or SA25FF/B/6?      Which product would be most effective?


ANSWER:  The SA25FF/ B/ 6  would be the most efficient but also the heaviest at about 5.5kg so it would depend on the size of your window as to which one you select because the larger the window, the heavier the plug will become.  If it proves that the B6 will be too heavy then the SA25FFSA is a good alternative and a lot lighter at less than 1kg per sq metre.


QUESTION:  I have recently moved to a house with an outside boiler which I find quite noisy.  There is plenty of space to build some sort of shelter so I wondered what your recommendations would be.  I understand that ventilation will be needed for the fumes and of course access for servicing.


ANSWER:  For best results you should build a concrete block enclosure around the boiler with heavy, sealed doors for access and a roof of 4 x 2 inch timber clad with 30mm of high density plasterboard on the underside and 25mm external grade ply on the top and protected with mineral coated felt.  The inside should be lined with our 32mm SA25FFB6 sound insulation and if there is not a proper flue from the boiler, then vents should be baffled,  More information on our SA25FFB6 can be viewed on our web site via the following link


QUESTION:  We are looking to get a soundproof booth installed in an existing office.  This is for a telephone helper so they can have a quieter/more private environment to work in

Please could you advise on the types of booths that would be suitable for one person to work in, an approximate cost (parts and installation) and if this is something that is built on site or delivered in a pre-built unit (as access is limited to a door width)

It would also need to be installed in a first floor office so would any structural considerations need to be taken into account e.g. additional weight of the booth.


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  Our web page on Acoustic Booths has a range of sizes including weight so you can select one to suit your requirements.  You may have to seek the advice of a structural engineer to see if your floor will take the weight or if any structural upgrading is required.  Each booth is supplied in panels that are put together on site and we can give a price to supply, deliver and construct if required.  For us to be able to give you the best price we would need to know the delivery address, how close the lorry can get to unload, how far each panel would have to be carried and the size of any doors and the stairs to be negotiated.  You can access the information on our acoustic booths via the following link.


I hope this helps you decide if we can offer what you are looking for but please get back to me if I can be of any further help before you make a decision.


QUESTION:  Thanks for the info - very helpful


Do you know if these are subject to building regs? i.e. would we need to apply for building regs?  as we would be looking to install in an existing commercial office.


ANSWER:  To the best of our knowledge, Building Regs are not applicable because the product does not form part of the building.


QUESTION:  Can your acoustic hoods be fitted retrospectively?  I have just had my ceiling re-done and the downlights are already installed and everything beautifully painted! The down light bulbs are 4cm diameter.


ANSWER:  You have to remove the downlighters to fit the hoods but the ceiling does not have to be disturbed.  Simply fit the hoods then refit the lamps.


QUESTION:  I don’t know if you give out free advice on actual construction ideas here but worth a try!


I'm looking to build a 6x5m drum room in my garden. It will be a concrete block outer wall - air gap -inner concrete block wall structure but am looking for advice on the best way to do internal stud walls and timber roof and ceiling. I had first planned a concrete roof but this will be too heavy. 


I need the room to be as soundproof as is possible as many night time work hours await!


I won’t waste your time with a lengthy email detailing my construction ideas here but any info and pointing me to any relevant products you stock would be appreciated.


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry.  If you are building the walls from high density concrete blocks with a mineral wool infill in the cavity I think you will have cracked it regarding soundproofing of the walls.  The weak points are going to be windows (if any), door(s) and roof so will deal with the roof first.  I assume it is going to be a flat roof so let me know if different.  A flat roof would give better acoustic insulation and should comprise two sets of independent joists, one above the other with at least 25mm space between the two.  Overlay the roof with 25mm external grade plywood and on top of that nail down three layers of 2mm SBM5 or our Tecsound T50 sound barrier mat before overlaying with weatherproof, protective mineralised felt.


From beneath, install 100mm of AMW100 acoustic mineral wool and secure with wire netting if necessary.  Then screw up 1 double thickness of 15mm high density Acoustic Plasterboard with our 1mm SoundBlocker membrane sandwiched between the layers.


Windows, if fitted should be triple glazed using different thicknesses of glass and irregularly spaced.  One of the panes should be laminated.  Heavy ply or MDF shutters with seals can also be fitted on either the outside or inside that can be closed when music is being played.


Any door entry system should be a double door system so that you have to go through two doors to gain entry or egress.  Both doors should be heavy fire doors with the outside one sealed with good quality draught proofing seals and the internal one sealed with one of our Acoustic Doorseal Kits.  The spacing between the doors should be as great as possible with the inside lined with sound absorbing panels.  Supporting walls can be timber or metal stud infilled with AMW of appropriate thickness and clad with 30mm of Acoustic Plasterbaord on both sides.


Once you are satisfied the soundproofing is complete, you will have to tune the inside of the room to meet your acoustic needs.  Stud walling can be installed at angles to reduce bass noise build up in 90 deg corners along with standing waves and the installation of adequate sound absorption to help reduce reverberation to accepted levels.


Ventilation may also have to be considered and we can offer Acoustic Vents with an insulation value on average of 40dB up to 50dB when closed.


We have articles on our commercial web site that will be worth reading and are "Soundproofing a Garage or Shed", "Soundproofing a Room", "How to Reduce Bass Noise in a Room using DIY".  There are also other articles on the same page that should be of interest and the page can be reached via the following link


QUESTION:  The walls are single layer of breeze block, on either side of the space. There are offices on the other side of these walls.


So, I need to insulated the side walls. I was thinking of building a wooden stud, and infilling with acoustic insulation. What do you suggest?

Also will acoustic plasterboard make a big difference. (would it be possible to get prices on these sheets, and on the insulation?)


The floor is concrete, as is the ceiling.  Do you have recommendations for both of these too.


ANSWER:  An independent stud sound insulated wall and ceiling would be the way to go and would be a room within a room.  Have a look at the articles we have written on soundproofing a garage and soundproofing a room via the following links, they will give you more detail on what is required.


There is more information on our aricles page that would also be relevant so worth a look. 


Acoustic plasterboard is a higher density plasterboard and should always be used when improving the soundproofing of a room and is inexpensive.  Current prices for most of our products can also be found on our web site.


QUESTION:  We have a Heat recovery Ventilation unit located on the ceiling of our utility room.  It was supposed to be very quiet, but the unit can clearly be heard from the nearby bedrooms on same floor.   The unit is around 1m wide and 1.5m long (I can get exact measurements).  What options would I have to reduce the noise?  I was thinking to build a box around it; would that work?


Our builder suggested to contact you.


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry but if the unit is rigidly fixed to the ceiling it is unlikely you will be able to silence the noise coming from it because it will be transmitted through the fabric of the building.  If it is possible to relocate the unit to a site where it can be sitting on a concrete block isolated with anti-vibration mats that would be the way to go.  Then enclose within a soundproofed enclosure.


I think that simply enclosing the unit where it currently is will not give you any worthwhile results and may well e a waste of money.  Is it not possible to switch it off at night?


QUESTION:  I was thinking of buying this:


to put under a small upright piano, and this:


to cover the wall behind the piano.


Do you think it is a good choice to reduce the noise transmitted through the concrete flooring to the neighbours downstairs and also decrease the airborne transmission in our flat. 


ANSWER:  Thank you for your enquiry but feel that installing a limited amount of noise control to reduce the sound of a piano playing will not make any worthwhile difference for your neighbours.  Before spending any money, I suggest you read through our article on soundproofing a room that you can access via the following link


QUESTIONSubject: Quiet Floor plus


Please can you tell me what this is made of and how it is made, i.e which chemicals are used. Does the product give off any fumes/smells?


I am interesting in purchasing but suffer with allergys.


ANSWERThank you for your enquiry.  Our QuietFloor Plus is made using recycled PVA (a plastic) with mineral fillers to give it density and sealed with a thin black Polyurethane film.  The sound absorbing core is produced using recycled Polyurethane foam.


The product does not give off any smells because of the PU film facing and once installed, the joints should be sealed with our PVC Jointing Tape.


I hope this is enough information to enable you to make a decision but we will be pleased to send you a sample for evaluation prior to order if you give us your name and address.


QUESTIONSubject: Flanking Noise

I have a breeze block party wall 5m x 2m where the main noise comes from but my side wall suffers from flanking. If I use your m20ad sound solution, will this help reduce the noise. Or will I be wasting my time because  of the flanking issues.


ANSWERThank you for your enquiry.  Flanking noise around party walls can be a real problem and more so with post war properties that have cavity walls.  I suggest you read through our article that can be read on our web site via the following link


Please get back to me after reading if you require any further advice.


QUESTIONWe had some water pumps installed in our loft areas to increase the water pressure, these pumps are “quiet” run pumps and were placed on beams mounted off the ceilings but we still get noise in the rooms below. I feel the installation was poor with  no consideration  for sound carrying through the “I” beams into the walls.


I’m looking for a company to look at the problem and offer a solution Is this something you can advise on?


ANSWERThank you for your enquiry.  To obtain the best results when soundproofing the pumps, they should be treated as described in our article 'Soundproofing Pumps' that can be viewed on our web site via the following link


Current prices for all of the products we stock are also on the web site.  We do not install but any local trades person should be able to follow our instructions and fit the required soundproofing materials.  Instructions can always be downloaded from the relevant product page on our web site.


QUESTIONHow much reduction in percentage would give me if I purchase the materials you have quoted me in your email using a single layer of SBM5? Please let me know. Thank you.


ANSWERYour question is too difficult to answer accurately because it will all depend on how well your existing floor is performing and its make-up.  As a general rule, the normal QF+ installation that includes one layer of SBM5 soundproofing mat will give well over a 50% reduction in the level of noise being heard and more in the region of 5dB.  A 3dB reduction using the straight line method of measurement is 50%.  If the SBM5 was doubled up, I would expect this to add at least another 1dB making the overall reduction around 6dB or more with the average, timber joisted floor and would be more in the region of 75% reduction in noise being heard.


QUESTIONSubject: NoiseStopper- Acoustic Ceiling Pads


I am interested in your NoiseStopper Acoustic Ceiling Pads. I am looking to use them as insulation in an existing suspended ceiling in a small office. Could you please tell me the insulation properties of the pads in W/mK and the weight or density of the pads?


The size I need is 600x600mm with a minimum order of 40 tiles. I would be looking for a quantity in the region of 1000 tiles. Are you able to offer a discount on this quantity?


ANSWERThank you for your enquiry but regret our NoiseStopper Pads are designed to reduce noise leakage rather than thermal but the thermal characteristics are as follows.


R Value (m2K/W Value = 1.4


The current price per pad is a trade price but if you order 1000 or more pieces delivered in one lot I am sure we can do something for you but before I look at that I would need to know the destination.


You will also need to use these alongside our NoiseStopper Luminaire covers to reduce noise leaking through the lighting units.  More info on these can be viewed on our web site via this link




Just been looking at your products on the internet, please could you advise which would be best suited for 50mm x 50mm electrical metal trunkings, where they pass through partition walls to provide acoustic sound proofing.


I was thinking of maybe non-flammable acoustic foam, that we could cut to size from sheets, or do you have a better idea.


ANSWEROur non-flammable acoustic foam will probably be the best and easiest to use for your trunking.  The foam is available in both 12mm and 25mm thicknesses in plain or self-adhesive and available from stock.


The foam is supplied in a sheet size of 1m x 1.5m so if you get back to me with the total quantity you are considering along with the delivery postcode, I will be pleased to give you our best price to supply and deliver.


QUESTIONWe live in a terraced house in Stratford Upon Avon.  The walls are thin and recently our neighbour has spuriously complained of noise from the television mounted on the wall.

We purchased the house with the television mounted on the wall and the neighbours have not changed and have only recently complained.


The speakers are at the front.  To kill the issue stone dead we would like to have soundproofing or a noise monitor installed please.


ANSWERThank you for your enquiry but regret we do not offer a noise monitoring service.  But we can supply soundproofing materials to help you upgrade the party wall you have and for best results, you need to lose some space and ideally would be up to 6 inches.  If you get back to me with the total amount of space you can lose I will then see if I can offer you a system that might be beneficial.


QUESTIONSubject: RE: Acoustic Sound Insulation


The function of the horn is to allow an exit for the air passing through it. Air is drawn in at one end an exited at the other through the horn. The function of the pipe is used for labs at Uni calculating velocity profiles. The only problem is it's too loud. Hopefully the horn will be total enclosed in a box with a hole in the side of diameter of 15cm for the pipe itself. I'm not sure of what material will be used I was hoping for some advice on that? I have also attached pictures of the horn that will be enclosed.


ANSWERIf there is to be a throughput of air, the enclosure will have to be constructed with an insulated baffle for the noise to exit through yet still reduce noise levels.  The baffle should allow air through it but without any direct line of site into the enclosure so the air has to negotiate bends treated with a sound absorber before exiting.  The enclosure can be constructed from any dense board such as 18mm MDF or ply and lined on the inside with our 25mm sound absorbing foam.  More information on our acoustic foam can be viewed on our web site via the following link


or if a non-flammable foam is required go to the following page


QUESTIONSubject: Sound Proofing


Hi, I am having a new fitted wardrobe made which backs on the adjoining room between me and my house mate. When it's all ripped out it seems an ideal opportunity to install some additional sound proofing. It is a standard stud partition. Would it be effective to coat the wall in Acousticel M20AD and then build the wardrobe onto it?


ANSWERThank you for your enquiry.  If space is at a premium then our Acousticel M20AD sound insulation with two layers of 15mm Acoustic Plasterboard glued on top will be the best solution.  If you get back to me with the dimensions of the wall along with your postcode, I will be pleased to give you our best price to supply and deliver all you need with the exception of the plasterboard that you should be able to source locally at a better price.


QUESTIONI would like some advice if I may.  Having reviewed your excellent website that I found on Bing, I would welcome some of your knowledge so that I can purchase the right solution to soundproof an internal garage.


My aim is to make the room a rehearsal room (ie guitar, bass, drums – all be it not at gig volume but considerably louder than bedroom volume).


We are purchasing a house that we are moving into in the New Year and I am planning ahead.  The internal garage is 5.4m x 2.6m with a ceiling height of c 2.4m.  


My main query is on what method to use for construction, how much it would cost in total, and how much noise can be reduced.  I understand the resilient layer theory.   The floor is, as far as I am aware, concrete.  It is a detached house but even with  a 3m gap between the adjourning house I would not like them to hear my noise!  What would you suggest as a cost effective means of making sure sound isn’t transferred through our property by the floor?  There is no basement to take consideration of.  The ceiling is wood joists and is not covered with any board at the moment.


The garage already has power piped in and a fire door (already thinking a second one for the inside for further noise reduction).


ANSWER: - Dec 2013


Thank you for your enquiry and I suggest you read our article on how to soundproof a garage before you start and you can go to it via the following link


Using the Studio Wall stud system of soundproofing the walls and ceiling the cost is going to be around £37.00 per square metre including VAT.  If you wish to install a floating floor the cost will for this is about £41.00 per square metre.


If the garage is properly soundproofed as detailed in our article, it is unlikely noise will disturb neighbours.


QUESTIONSubject: Which sound proofing products

I am wanting to buy some sound proofing products from yourselves but not sure which products would be best for my problem. I live in a 200 year old cottage with rubbled filled walls, the house next door where the noise is coming from has been added at a later date, with chimney breasts together. We can hear the child next door jumping and running around not really voices or anything else, it is the jumping noise we want to block out. Can you tell me what product would best cancel this noise out.


ANSWERThank you for your enquiry. If you have a party wall with a chimney breast and fireplace each side it is unlikely you will be able to reduce the noise of a child jumping around without installing an independent soundproofed stud wall system and totally encapsulating the chimney breast and fireplace.  Have a look at our article on the subject via the following link


QUESTIONSubject: Which sound proofing products


Ok, thank you for your answer. After reading the Link, If I bought some mineral wool and put it in a bin bag and stuffed it in the chimney breast, as it states in the link, would this muffle the noise?


ANSWER Just inserting a bag of mineral wool on its own into a chimney breast will not give you an audible improvement but when combined with other soundproofing measures and bricking up the fireplace you get a better result.


QUESTIONI have a garage attached to my property which is adjacent to my neighbours garage and seperated by a single skin block wall.

The front is now bricked up with double skin block cavity and has a window.

The back and side wall adjoining my house is also single block.

The roof is a flat cold roof with 100mm depth of wood joists with a gap in between them and a fibreglass roof.

The ceiling height will be about 2.4m below the existing joists.

The dimensions of the garage are 2.5m wide and 5.5m length.

The floor is a solid concrete base and I do not have much height to play with to keep it level with my house floor.

There is a solid fire door I have fitted into a hole made to access the room from the house.


I plan to use the room as a music practice room but I understand the limitations of soundproofing this when I have a window and door. I also don't have the space to afford room for a lot of soundproofing and I need to thermally insulate also. I was thinking of focusing mainly on the party wall for obvious rerasons even though the neighbours use their garage for storage and fridge/dryer etc.


1. I was going to attach wood studs (100mm x 50mm) with the 100mm face down to the block party wall but need advice as to how best fix these please? Can I use some sort of isolation fittings/genie clips/isolating tape or glue a soundproof membrane (Tecsound? or something else?) to that wall and then fix over this?


2. I was going to use Celotex insulation betweeen each timber upright 50mm thickness


3. I was then considering Resilient bars attached to the wood uprights and then another layer of Celotex with plasterboard already bonded to it fixed to the bars.


4. Plaster skim


What are you thoughts in terms of compromise on space/expense/thermal etc?

Is there a better way of doing this?


ANSWERIt would be better if you used 50mm battens fixed directly to the wall with 30mm (2 x 15mm) of acoustic plasterboard decoupled from the battens with our 15mm deep Resilient Bars.


Celotext has no sound absorbing value for the infill and you would do better to use normal fibreglass which is not only thermal but also sound absorbing.


If you want to include Celotex then after installing the mineral wool infill and Resilient Bars, fix two layers of plasterboard to the Resilient Bars first then attach the Celotext faced plasterboard on top.

QUESTION Is there any benefit of separating the 50mm battens away from the wall with rubber door stops or something similar when upgrading the soundproofing of a party wall?  Could Genie clips be used?  Or should I just use normal fixings but limit the number?Also would incorporating a sound proofing membrane behind the battens or on top of them be of benefit and which of these 2 would be better?SBM5 barrier mat 2mmTecsound T50 2.6mm thick

How would these be attached ?

It sounds like I should go with acoustic mineral wool between the battens then a thinner Celotex on top of the resilient bars and then 2 layers of acoustic plasterboard perhaps ? Or should the Celotex be sandwiched between the 2 acoustic plasterboards?

ANSWER: If you use the Resilient Bars as previously directed there is no requirement to isolate the battens from the wall.  The plasterboard should be fixed to the Resilient Bars as stated previously.  It is not recommended that any deviation from this is incurred. With regard to SBM5 or T50 they both perform in a similar manner acoustically but the T50 comes in 6m rolls and self-adhesive which may be easier to use and preferable.  

QUESTION: Ok so I would have battens fixed directly to wall with acoustic mineral wool in between. Then resilient bars with the 2 layers of acoustic plasterboard with T50 in between.  Is there any way I could incorporate a layer of Celotex in there somewhere or is that not necessary? 

ANSWER: You've got it but if you really want Celotex it could be installed on top of the 2 layers of plasterboard. 

QUESTION: Hi do I need the Genie clips or can the resilient bars be screwed directly to the wood battens? Should the walls and ceilings be separated from the floor or isolated by some sort of soundproofing?Is the SoundBlocker Quilt Plus better than the standard Acoustic Mineral Wool?Can the Tecsound T50S be used on the ceiling or is it too heavy? Is the Soundblocker Membrane more appropriate for ceilings? 

ANSWER: I have answered your questions below in the order you gave. Do I need the Genie clips or can the resilient bars be screwed directly to the wood battens?  Both can be used but the GenieClip system is about 45mm overall thickness. more efficient than Res Bars and foolproof to install. Should the walls and ceilings be separated from the floor or isolated by some sort of soundproofing?  The plasterboard should have a small gap that can be sealed using our Acoustic Sealant that is high density and remains flexible. Is the SoundBlocker Quilt Plus better than the standard Acoustic Mineral Wool?  Yes but has to be fixed to the studs using staples or thin battens for best results. Can the Tecsound T50S be used on the ceiling or is it too heavy? Is the Sounblocker Membrane more appropriate for ceilings?  Too heavy to handle for ceilings whereas the SoundBlocker Membrane is lighter and specially developed for ceilings.  

QUESTION: Subject: R10 Floating Floor Information Thanks for the email. We are looking to use this on the site at Thatcham delivery early in January. I will confirm areas with the order. The site is a code 3 sustainability site therefore I need to get any sustainable certification that the product may have. For example is it manufactured in a eco responsible way. Are the manufacturers implementing processes to reduce carbon emissions. Even to say they now use eco lights in their factory instead of old light bulbs is a bonus. Anything at all that will tick the box for Code 3 Sustainability. Even confirmation of the ISO that they may be accredited to if any. If you could email it through that would be great, The government are making this building game harder and harder.  

ANSWER: Further to your recent request for sustainable certification it has been our policy to supply as many of our soundproofing products as possible that are either produced using recycled materials or the products themselves are recyclable.  Most of our products now fall into this category but it will be a while before we are able to make it 100%.  However, all of our products used to bring separating floors into Part E compliance are produced using recycled and recyclable products and have attached certification to that effect that I hope will meet your requirements. 

QUESTION: I need to reduce the sound from 2 swimming pool filter pumps, they are situated within a pool plant room which is concrete construction and has a louvred door The pumps are approx 80cm long x 25cm high x 25cm wideI would purchase the pump housing kits but I am concerned about them overheating as the room gets extremely hot in the summer  Is there a product that would allow air circulation but still reduce the noise??I have considered fitting an attenuation louvre to the door but the door opens on to a wall and so the 10cm I need to hang the grill on the back of the door I don’t have, it would be possible to fit something up to 5 cm thick to the door but would still have to allow some air transfer?? 

ANSWER: Thank you for your enquiry and it may be worth your while reading through our article on how to soundproof pump noise via the following link  It also gives details of how to construct a simple soundproofed baffle to allow for ventilation.  As your enclosure is currently constructed from concrete, if the roof is of similar mass all that may be required is to line the inside with a suitable sound absorber and attenuate the existing louvres.  One possible way of doing this is to install a wooden plate on the inside of the louvres lined with a sound absorber and fixed so as not to impede the flow of air.  The plate should also be larger than the louvred area if possible.   If you get back to me with the dimensions of the inside of the enclosure and the type of noise being emitted (low, medium or high frequency) I will determine the best sound absorber for you.  If you do not know how to describe the noise, simply compare it to a noise I may already be familiar with.

QUESTION: I have recently moved into a flat in Edinburgh and there is a Potterton combi boiler in the cupboard in the bedroom.   I find it very loud at night and hard to sleep.  Do you have any advice how I can sound proof it and/or is there someone in Edinburgh that could provide this?
In addition the timer connected to the central heating constantly ticks really loudly (like a clock) even when the boiler is switched off.  Is there a solution to this such as re-mounting it on more noise absorbent surface or lubricating it? 

ANSWER: Thank you for your enquiry but I cannot help in respect of the timer apart from suggesting it is relocated to another part of the building where the ticking will not annoy or having it changed for a digital one. Concerning the noise from your boiler it is always best to have them switched off at night because the noise from them will nearly always be heard.  However, if it cannot be switched off for whatever reason, the noise can be reduced by lining the inside of the cabinet where it is housed with sound absorbing foam and upgrading the cupboard door with one of our Acoustic Doorseal Kits. If you get back to me with the total thickness you can install onto the walls and ceiling of the cupboard I will then be able to see which of our sound absorbing foams will be best for you.  More information on our Doorseal Kits can be viewed on our web site via the following link 

QUESTION: Hello,  I wonder if you can advise as to whether A10 underlay will have an impact on impact noise coming up though a wooden floor from the flat below?? The noise appears to be caused by outdoor shoes on the wooden floor of the flat below. Thanks for any advice you can offer. 

ANSWER: Thank you for your enquiry but A10 will only absorb impact noise from the floor on which it is installed.  Although the noise you are hearing is generated by impact it is the airborne element that is penetrating your floor.  The best solution to reduce this noise nuisance is to install our heavy QuietFloor Plus Acoustic Underlay system.  More info on that can be viewed on our web site via the following link Links to current prices can also be found on the rhs of each product page.

QUESTION: I am just after a bit of advice before I purchase. I am looking to reduce the airborne TV noise through the alcoves of my dining room. I am building glass display cabinets into the alcoves, with glass doors on the front, floor to ceiling and mirrors at the back. I think this in itself will help reduce the noise as I will have put doors and trapped air between the noise and my space. However, I think putting SBM5 mat behind the mirror back would add another barrier to the noise, without sacrificing space. My theory is that even if this not ideal situation halves the sound proofing properties of the mat, it would still help muffle the sound out into more of a background noise a bit and would be better than nothing. I just wanted to check my idea is just in the 'not ideal' category, rather than the 'will have zero effect or even make things worse' category. And would two layers of the product have any significant higher effect? Or (as I know twice as much doesn't double the db reduction) or would a second layer be pointless as the additional dampening would be marginal? 

ANSWER: It falls into the 'not ideal' category but two layers will be better than one because you are unlikely to appreciate any improvement with just one layer. 

QUESTION: We have a combi boiler in a back bedroom which we would like to reduce the noise from. Could you offer any advice as to which of your products we could use to encase the boiler with.  

ANSWER: Thank you for your enquiry. You can line the cupboard with our 32mm SA25FFB6 that has a wear resistant black, protective coating and upgrade the door with one of our Acoustic Doorseal Kits.  More information on these can be viewed on our web site via the following links  The SA25FFB6 is quite heavy so is best fixed with our Sta-Stuck aerosol contact adhesive and information on this can be viewed via the next link  

QUESTION: Our son’s room is separated by a brick wall to our neighbors’ living room, so he has a hard time sleeping when they are having dinner guests, etc.I’ve been looking at your soundproofing mat, SBM5 ( Would that be able to do the trick, and do you just fasten it directly on the wall?How do you fasten it to the wall, and how about the edges around it, can you isolate that as well, so that the wall is totally covered?Also, would three layers be what I should aim at? If this is not the correct solution, is there another of your products that I should use?And finally, do you ship to or have resellers in Denmark? 

ANSWERThank you for your email but regret that our SBM5 Soundproofing Mats are not suitable for installation onto masonry walls but fine if the walls are of stud construction.  However, for best results you need to lose more space and the thinnest solution that would be worthwhile is our 50mm thick M20AD system.  More information on this can be viewed on our web page via the following link  If properly applied using our adhesive, it is possible to fix things to the wall such as shelves or cupboards using the correct, screw-in plasterboard fixings. We can arrange delivery to Denmark if preferred and we will be pleased to quote once we are aware of your exact requirements.  

QUESTION: I’m after some sound proofing on my bedroom wall that’s joined to my neighbours. The wall measures 350 x 230 and the noise is mainly talking and sometimes shouting and sometimes music. I wonder if you can give me a rough ideal of what this size wall would cost for sound proofing.   Many thanks. 

ANSWER: Thank you for your enquiry.  The price will, really depend on the total thickness of soundproofing you can incorporate with the thickest being the cheapest and most efficient but will take up about 6 inches.  Have a look at the options we offer on our web page for walls via the following link then get back to me with your preferred choice.  I will then be able to give you our best price to supply and deliver your requirements. 

QUESTION: Will acoustic plasterboard stop the flanking noise?  They are brick walls.

ANSWER:  If there is flanking noise then treating the floor acoustically will make no difference.  When flanking noise is an issue coming up the walls, it can be addressed by installing either our 50mm Thin Wall System or the thenner 27.5mm Ultra Thin Wall System.  More info on these can be viewed on our web site via the following link If there is flanking noise then treating the floor acoustically will make no difference.  When flanking noise is an issue coming up the walls, it can be addressed by installing either our 50mm Thin Wall System or the thenner 27.5mm Ultra Thin Wall System.  More info on these can be viewed on our web site via the following link  Current prices are also on our web site.


QUESTIONWe have a condensing boiler pump in our airing cupboard. The noise is very loud and wakes us at night. Its a Jet high condensing boiler pump.  We have been told to sound proof it but it does need ventilation.
Would one of your systems be appropriate.  Are they easy to fit as I have very limited DIY skills.
I hope you can help.

ANSWER: Thank you for your enquiry but it is unlikely to be possible to soundproof your pump so that it cannot be heard at night.  The best solution is to time it so it switches off before you retire to bed and have it switch back on as you get up.


More F.A.Qs can be seen below

Sound insulAtion related Questions top

What’s the difference between sound insulation and sound absorbing products?

Sound insulation and soundproofing products are designed to work as an acoustic barrier to reduce sound leaving or entering a room or workspace.

Sound absorbers are designed to absorb the sound within a room and help reduce room echo etc. Sound absorbers do not stop the sound leaving the space but will reduce the amount of noise by reducing the reverberation (echo) within the enclosure.

If you wish to soundproof a room you would normally need to purchase both types of sound insulating materials.

Is Your Sound Insulation hard to install?

If you are D.I.Y minded then you should be fine installing most of our products. If you do not have installation instructions they can be printed off from our website. If you are in any doubt about your ability to install a system you have seen please call our team to discuss BEFORE you order.

Will your sound insulation take up much space on my floor wall or ceiling?

On average our sound insulation materials will take up no more than 2 inches but this really varies depending on the system. On each product page you will be able to see the thickness of the insulation. The total space taken up by any sound control system will depend on your final wall, floor or ceiling finish.


I want to soundproof my garden shed, is this possible?

Soundproofing any area is possible if you are prepared to put enough time, effort and money into it.

The problem with lightweight sheds is they are not built from solid materials. If you want to soundproof a shed you would need to lose a min of 5 inches off each wall and ceiling and have a double entry acoustic door system in place. This for most people is just too much. Our advice in short is, yes it can be done but you are better off building an extension and then soundproofing this area.


My child plays the drums - what can i do to reduce this sound?

A drum kit can produce over 100db of noise. This is similar to the sound of a noisy factory. Logic states that you can't just stick a thin rubber layer on the wall to reduce this level of noise. In an ideal world you need to build an isolated floating room within a room. The simple rule is the more soundproofing of ours that you use the better the reduction will be. You will be required to build an isolated wall using timber studs and not connected to the existing wall. The voids between are infilled with our Acoustic Quilt or Acoustic Mineral Wool of sufficient thickness.

Finally, our Resilient Bars should be screwed to the stud followed by two layers of plasterboard screwed to the bars. For an enhanced result, SBM5 Soundproofing Mat can be sandwiched between the two layers of plasterboard to act as a decoupler. We would advise calling our technical team before undertaking the treatment of a drum room.

Sound Absorber Related Questions top

Will sound absorPtion look ugly or spoil the look of the room?

We have a range of sound absorption products for you to choose from. Some are very subtle and you would not necessarily know they were there but we also supply profiled items which can look funky on a wall or ceiling and actually be a great talking point.

How do I find the sound absorber that I need?

Click on the Sound Absorbers Products page and then select which surface you wish to treat. You will then see a range of suitable sound absorbing systems. If at any point you are unsure please run our “Sound Wizard ” program, which can be seen at the top menu. This will help you find the right product. You can also try using our search box above.

How much of the wall or ceiling do I need to cover?

There is no simple answer to this question. You would need to speak to one of our technical team and they will assist you with your noise problem and be able to predict the amount needed but as a general rule of thumb, covering the ceiling with sound absorbing tiles is often all that is required.

Are your sound absorbing products hard to install?

If you are D.I.Y minded then you should be fine installing most of our products. If you do not have installation instructions they can be printed off from our website. If you are in any doubt about your ability to install a system you have seen please call our team to discuss BEFORE you order.

Ordering Questions top

Am I able to order online?

Yes. Most of our products can be ordered online and can be seen here

Can I buy your products direct from a builders merchant or dealer?

You can order our products through Jewsons and many other large national building merchants. Most of these merchants don't stock our products because we deliver direct to the customer. We don’t currently have any dealers as products are normally ordered directly from us and we dispatch to the delivery address nationwide.

Do you offer credit to trade customers?

We do not normally open credit facilities for new customers because all of our soundproofing materials can be purchased through most national Builders Merchants or insulation suppliers. If you already have an account with a builder’s merchant it is worth asking them if they can order the items on your behalf. You can order our products through Travis Perkins, Jewsons and many other large Builders merchants.

Do you offer discounts?

We offer very competitive discounts on all our products for bulk orders. We also run Special Offers which can be seen here or call our sales team for more information.

How do I obtain a quote?

Please click on the contact us page or call our main number 0845 363 7131.

What payment methods do you accept?

We accept all major credit and debit cards except for American Express and Amex. You can also pay us with cash or cheque but we will require approx 7 working days for a cheque to clear. WE REQUIRE FULL CLEARED PAYMENT BEFORE ANY GOODS CAN BE DESPATCHED.

Delivery Related Questions top

Can I collect the items from you directly?

Yes, we have a trade counter and welcome the chance to meet our customers. It is advisable to call in advance of a collection so our packing team can prepare your order. Please click on the contact us page for directions.

How do you deliver to me?

We use a number of delivery methods and couriers dependant on the size and weight of your order.

In many cases your products will be delivered on a wooden pallet and you will require a suitable sized space to sit this outside your address. If this is going to be a problem for you please notify our sales team before you order.

How much does the delivery cost?

We offer free delivery on many items, please ask for details. This will vary on the way we have to send it to you. In most cases the average delivery cost would be no more than £50.

How quickly can I get my products?

We offer 2 delivery methods. Next day or our economy service that is normally 2-4 days.

Unlike other companies we stock all our soundproofing products in our warehouse. If you require your items on a next day service we will need to receive the order before midday. In some cases we can despatch items after this time but this is at the discretion of our despatch team.

Our sound absorber range and some other items are generally made to order and the lead-times will vary. This will be explained to you when you order.

Can I pay cash on delivery for the items?

I am afraid we don’t offer that service, as we don’t use our own drivers.

Do I need to be on site for the delivery?

All items we despatch need to be signed for as proof that you have received it. There needs to be someone at the premises to sign for this unless other arrangements have been made.

What if I am not there when you deliver?

We are charged by our courier’s everytime they have to redeliver to our customers. We are unable to absorb these costs so you will be re charged if you are not in. The re delivery costs are normally the same as the amount we charged you originally. If you think you may not be in for the delivery please alert the sales team when ordering and they can make alternative plans for your order.

Do you accept returned goods?

We will accept returns on non-customised products within a certain time frame and providing they are in a good and re-sellable condition. Please read our Terms & Conditions of Sale for more information.

If you still can’t find the answer to your sound insulation question here please feel free to contact us via our contact us page.




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